Fresh from its move to Dempsey, the home-styled restaurant now occupies a smaller area, reminiscent of a rustic barn complete with weathered walls. If you were a fan of the casual and intimate dining that chef and owner, Petrina Loh, so effortlessly recreated back at Mayo Street, you’ll be glad to know nothing has changed. The food remains a medley of genres, flavours and textures while highlighting various forms of fermentation and pickling, a skill she continues to refine.
Identifying these components in a dish become a little fun exercise as some are easier than others to pick out. The homemade kimchi and pickled wakame, for example, swimming in the thick, sweet fig broth of Steamed Venus Clams (S$24) stand out as tart crunchy bits. On the other hand, the tamarind miso sauce in Loh’s rendition of the local carrot cake – Grilled Wild Sri-Lankan Tiger Prawns ($S24) with sakura ebi daikon cake – comes across so subtle, it doesn’t give itself away. Chunks of pineapple are given a similar treatment in Assam Laksa (S$25), one of the lunch sets that Morsels offers as part of its noodle bar on the weekdays. Alternatively, the brunch menu of smørrebrøds (Danish open sandwiches) and cold plates let you sample what the California Culinary Academy graduate has been up to in the kitchen.
Wild Sri Lankan Tiger Prawn
#01-04, 25 Dempsey Road. Tel: 65/6266-3822.